Say hello to my new
sewing pattern LiLi!!
Above is
- Chanel quilting on garment grade faux leather
- Ultra or faux suede patchwork
- Below is a recycled quilt
I wanted to show a variety of diverse fabrics and how LiLi can go
designer glam with Chanel inspired quilting,
sporty with the faux suede patchwork &
sweet fun with the quilt, but a little spicy with the croc faux leather!
Here is the LiLi Cover:
Oh and yes...that is faux fur!
Here are the raw materials, just waiting to be cut and sewn!!
LiLi Bundles are available on the website here.
Bundles include:
-LiLi Pattern
-Faux Leather Kit #2
-Trigger hook/Ring Set
Buckle is optional and can be added here.
Please cut the pieces of the LiLi. here is a quick list:
EXTERIOR
-Stabilizer foam
-Exterior Fabric
-Button Tab
LINING
-Lining + Muslin
-Pocket front + Pocket back
-Pocket trim cap
STRAP
-Buckle tab (Optional)
- Buckle
Here is my tutorial of how to construct the strap and the ring tab.
After the strap is sewn, cut a 4" piece for the button tab.
Here is how to construct the ring tab.
This is how to sew on the trigger hooks!
Thread strap through the eye 2", then clip in place.
The left edge of the strap is flush with the left edge of the foot.
Needle all the way to the left.
Start in the middle of the strap, hold the threads for 2 stitches.
With a 3.5 stitch length (SL), sew over the front side of the strap,
then backstitch to go over the back side of the strap, back to the middle.
Turn the stitches down to like 1.75 SL, sew 4-5 stitches
and that should lock the stitches in.
Move needle to the center, and repeat for double row stitching!
****Before sewing on the other trigger hook****
No to the buckle, the adjust the strap through the eye,
and try on to get the correct strap length + 2", then cut off any extra.
Button Tab:
First sew on one end the double row of stitching to finish end.
Then 1/2" up from that end, make a button hole.
The button hole needs to be 1" long.
For the buttonhole I did it manually.
I found the center and the 1" length and marked with chalk lines.
Do sample stitching of this on scrap FL first.
Then I moved my needle so it was just to the left of the center line, and did a small close zigzag the 1" length, then moved needle to the right and repeated small close zigzag.
Then I moved to both ends of the zigzag to finish with a very close zigzag & dropped my feeddogs to stay in one place. Ended with a 1/75 straight stitch SL to knot.
Another close up of button tab buttonhole!
Yes to the buckle, then sew on the other trigger hook using all of the strap.
Then:
Measure from the middle of the eye of the triggerhook along 7" of strap and cut off,
so there is the 7" of strap + the trigger hook.
Measure 2.25" from cut strap end and punch a hole.
Then thread the buckle prong through the hole as seen before.
Repeat the double row stitching.
For the long strap + trigger hook:
On strap edge, do the double row stitching to make a nice strap end finish
Measure 2" from the end, and from there mark chalk lines ever 1".
Using ruler as below find the strap center at each line and punch a hole.
Take the tab and wrap thru just below the buckle, clip in place.
Using a needle with 4 strands of thread
(take a yard length of thread, fold in half, thread the 2 ends onto a big needle,
pull thru half way to have 4 threads). Use a thimble to help pierce
thru the FL. Sew as shown through 2 holes.
4 times around one edge, 4 time around the middle thru the 2 holes,
and finally 4 times around the other edge. Knot in between each area, then knot below 4-5 times.
Add Fray Check to knots below!
Cut threads!
Move tab ends around to be hidden under strap.
Lets begin working on the exterior!
There will be 2 techniques shown to apply a patchwork piece
& how to sew Chanel inspired quilting.
First the quilting!
This Sulky KK 2000 was amazing to use to hold
the garment grade FL in place to quilt.
If exterior fabric like the quilt is used and does not require quilting or topstitching,
then it can be pinned/clipped to each end of the foam.
Use a 3.5-4.0 stitch length with a 1/4" SA to secure to foam at the top and bottom of the fabric!
The grid of my cutting board was used to align and to mark the 1st diagonal line to quilt.
The FL was in place, also clipped for a secure hold.
Use a Teflon foot OR dual feed foot & 90-100 needles.
Start stitching with a 3.0-3.5 SL.
After the first row of stitching, use a quilt guide to stitch the rest of the quilting in that direction.
Quilt guide in action!
Next chalk a line in the opposite direction from the other upper corner.
Lets look at adding patchwork.
First I pieced the patchwork, sewing 2 pieces, then the next 2 pieces that will align with the first.
Do not cut threads. When I was designing this patchwork, I started with 3 rows, but only needed 2 rows. After the pieces are sewn together to form a row that is connected to the next row, then the top stitching is done, with the rows all top stitched, next sew the 2 rows together and top stitch them.
Piecing was sewn with 1/4" SA, and topstitched with 1/8" SA.
Close up of topstitching!
Once again the Sulky KK 2000 adhesive was helpful for placement.
Make sure to use a pin to mark the center of the patchwork and the foam.
Match those pins to get accuracy in placement.
Only 2 rows of patchwork were needed. to hold the pieces in place a 1/4" SA,
with a 4.0 Stitch length was used to secure the top edge to the foam.
Then a 3.5 stitch length, stitch in the ditch was sewn right in
the seam that goes across the exterior.
And the excess is cut off!
Add the Faux Leather bottom!
Mark the centers of the long sides of foam, and FL with pins,
then match those center pins to get correct placement.
Clips the sides, and pin the FL over the fabric
by catching the underside of the FL as shown below.
A closer look.
Then use a 3.5 SL & a 1/8" SA to start stitching the FL on the fabric/foam.
Turn to sew down the side, and then continue on the other end, side again.
Back to where stitching started, do a 2nd row of stitching 3/8" SA, repeat on opposite end.
I recycled a denim pocket on the vintage quilt LiLi
The next step is to join the sides.
Super important to get the FL edges to match up.
I like to clip the edges in place for a 1/2-1" above and below the FL edge,
stitch with a 4.0 SL and 1/4" SA, just a small bit.
Then check to see if the FL ends match up.
If they do not match, pull out the stitches and try again.
Once they match, then clip the rest of the sides together, make sure the tops edges are even.
Do not clip the bottom 2" of the side yet.
With this piece folded, measure up 1" from the bottom and 1 3/8" from the side
I missed getting pictures of the exterior being sewn, but this is almost exactly need to happen.
If there is a seam, then measure 1 3/8", but on the fold, measure only 1", and mark the square.
This is how the bottom will be squared.
Sew only on the sides with a 1 3/8" SA, ending 1/8" or close to the squares.
Cut the squares, then flatten out so the seam is in the center of the flatten side.
Clip in place.
Due to the fold on the bottom of the exterior, there will only be one seam.
Sew with a 3/8" SA.
Turn the exterior right side out.
The ring tab is next, but needs to be cut into 2 pieces at 5" long each.
Slip the ring onto the tab, and fold the tab in half, then form a v to bevel the v.
This distributes the bulk of the tab, and when all sewn it,
creates one of my signature techniques!
Place the tab centered with the side seam and clip in place.
Sew with a 1/4" SA and a 3.5 SL.
On to the lining!
Another look at attaching the ring tab!
Also at this time
One last thing to add to the exterior at this time is the button tab.
Find the center of one side (that will become the back of the bag),
mark with a pin. Then center the button tab top (buttonhole is at bottom).
Sew on with the 1/4" SA with the 3.5-4.0 SL.
It will look like this when the bag is finished!
Here are all the pieces for the lining.
The lining will be stabilized with muslin.
This is the pocket trim cap,
Ironed in half lengthwise, then separately each raw edge
is tucked into the first fold and ironed again, Repeat for other side.
The pocket trim cap with finish the top of the pocket.
The can be one longer piece OR 2 pieces.
The long piece is folded in half and ironed, then a few pins to hold in place
during construction as seen below.
If 2 pieces, with right sides together, sew a 1/2" seam at the bottom,
then flip to right side, seam is a fold, and pin to hold pocket in place.
Trim cap is to be added to pocket. Trim cap should be longer then pocket.
First line up foot edge with fold of trim cap (3/8" SA).
and stitch 2 stitches with a 3.0 SL.
the needle acts like a 3rd hand as the pocket is slid into the trim cap, right up to the needle!
Stitch and stop to tuck the rest of the pocket!
Next as shown here the lining is layered with the muslin.
I like to put a pin in the top, so I know it is the top, then 3 pins in each side to hold
lining + muslin in place.
Then place the pocket 3' down from lining top.
Stitch the pocket bottom first with a 1/8" SA & 3.0 SL.
Next find the lining + pocket center at top & bottom and mark with a pin.
Start stitching up the center from the bottom of the pocket with
I fun home dec stitch, which are strong and will provide the divider for the pocket.
If I did not have the logo I would have sewn the home dec stitch all the way to the top for fun!
Now to sew the lining together and to box the bottom.
Pin/clip the sides together, except bottom 2".
Draw the box, measuring 1 3/8" from the bottom and the side to form box.
Sew up to 1/8" of the box or very close.
For the bottom, as seen here, sew about 1" from box on both ends
to leaving an opening to pull bag right side out.
Cut the box out.
Then box corners as done with exterior.
Sew with a 3/8" SA.
Next, put right sides together by sliding exterior into lining.
****Very Important****
Button tab must be on same side as lining pocket.
Match side seams, then clip entire tops together.
Sew with a 1/2" SA.
Yes I like to do a combo of pining & clipping!
Turn right side out, pulling bag out thru the lining opening.
Now to pin the lining opening with 3/8" SA.
Then I just clip it together and NOT unpin pins.
Sew with a 1/8" SA.
Gently tuck lining into bag.
To prep for top edge top stitch, clip top in place.
Do a double row stitching, with the needle over the right, and right edge of foot even with bag top.
Sew with a 3.5-4.0 SL. Take your time to sew straight.
Then move needle over the foot center and stitch again.
Do not catch button or ring tabs in this TS.
Find the center front and mark with a pin
Measure 1.5" down and mark with a pin.
Use a seam ripper/small sharp nips to make a tiny hole through all layers.
Keep as much fabric as possible to hold jean button in place.
Take a 1/2" x 1/2" FL piece, and round the corners.
Cut a hole in the center.
Put the back tack of the jean button thru it, then thread to the top.
Put a piece of wood or similar under tack for support.
Put a few layers of batting or fleece to protect button head,
and gently hammer into place on tack.
LiLi is finished!
#lilicrossbody & @paradisosewingpatterns for social media tags.
Email any questions to:
info@paradisodesigns.com
Thank you for following along to make good stuff!
xo,
Cheryl
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