Method Monday, No. 1 A Few Tips About Strip Cutting Fabric/Pleather Substrates
Method Monday No. 1
Strip Cutting Fabric & Other Substrates (like Pleather)
Lipstick Red Croc Pleather, penny is to compare size
I will be sharing tips & techniques to help you achieve your sewing dreams on Mondays.
I am super excited to show you how I have set up my studio to cut all my pattern pieces, and even give you a glance into how I make it easy to cut a high volume of the pleather/faux leather kits that work with all my Paradiso handbag patterns but also other handbag patterns as well. Over time I have developed a cutting style that helps me achieve very sharp sewing results.
Straight lines help us sew straight.
This is also a story of a sewist on a budget, making the most out of everything. As you will see my studio is set up in my garage. I call it the Paradiso Sewing Lounge. I even cleaned it for you!
I do not have tidy white counters.
It reminds me of Scott Hansen and his studio.
Yes I have as neat as possible fabric piles all around. There are baskets of thread. There is sewing art. There are many sewing tools, and it has a warmth for me and others. And it is mine, and I cherish it will all my heart. Plus there is a bed for my pup Jackx too!!
A few years ago I had a friend that loves my patterns tell me she was not fond of cutting strips (as I do with many of my Paradiso handbag and clothing patterns. BUT, what I found is strip cutting actually helps you make more accurate cuts.
It is similar to building a house, the more plumb (straight) you build it the longer the house will stand. The same goes with cutting out the pieces of a garment or a handbag. If I start out with straight cutting, then it is easier to continue accuracy throughout the entire project construction process.
So lets start with the basics. My cutting area set up is really simple. I leave the cutting mats in place 24/7. Even if I am teaching, then they are always ready to go! I tape the boards down to my table like this with clear packing tape. And sometimes I need to retape, but it is never a problem. I just slap more tape on top of the old tape.
The navy board is the bigger mat I use for most of the cutting. Then I have an "extension cutting mat". I used 2 smaller boards and taped them to gether on bottom.
-*A little "green mat history.. the green mat has marks on it, you can see them in this picture. Those are tire marks. An old friend found this mat on the ground in a parking lot. She thought I could use it, and I have for about 11 years now.
-You can see my two main tables in my studio in the next picture, both have the bigger boards, the navy and the green one, then you will see the extension cutting board next to the navy board on the first table.
Just a note about the navy cutting mat by Ofla. I will not get navy mats again because it is too hard to see darker colors on the navy mat, so the next mats will be green.
***PS...this is the cleanest/most organized my studio has been in over a year.
I use my studio to teach kiddos/adults to sew, and that is why you see so many machines.
As you look at the big table (I use dining room tables I get at thrift stores) with the navy and extension boards here. Often when I cut big rolls of pleather/faux leather, I have a 2' x 4' table (you can get them at Home Depot). The coolest thing is that they are adjustable legs at different heights, one of which is just below the big table, allowing for the smaller table to be tucked under. Because it is a bit lower then the bigger table, my big heap of fabric/bolt/roll of pleather sits on that lower table when it is pulled out, then I put one of the black folding chairs tops flush up to the edge of the table. This prevents the fabric/bolt/ roll from rolling off the table as I work on cutting what I need!
So this is what the table looks like with a huge roll of pleather on it. You are able to see how the roll sits slightly lower.
You can also see how the roll is on the lower table that can be move so it is just wide enough hold just the roll in placel.
-I was useing my 12.5" square to make a cut, and notice the extension mat is lined up so I can make the continoues cut on the pleather with the extension to bridge so I do not cut on to the wood table top.
Now to talk about what else is in the picture. I have:
-a rotary cutter (also Olfa)
-3" ruler
-measureing tapes
I also use:
-Various rulers, 6" x 24", 10.5" & 12.5" squares, 3.5" x 24"
-scissors for a quick clip when I need it
It is best to cut the pleather with rotary cutter. It will be a clean straight cut, which is essential to straight sewing.
In the picture above I am cutting out the bag body pieces. I take into account which way the pleather here will look best when deciding how to cut.
-With the square I am cutting out the bag body so that the croc pattern runs vertical, and it will look best vertical.
-But if I wanted to get more out of the cut I might cut a bigger piece (the horizontal measurement), but cutting bigger will not guarantee me more pieces always (if I am cutting kits), as this is a smaller bag.
-Keep this in mind what your fabric will yield when cut vertically vs. hortizontal. In this case it was the same amount of pieces either way, but the vertical looks better and has less waste, which is the #1 goal when cutting.
The next picture shows where I am cutting straps. Check out how I moved the extension for this different size cut.
Here is the process in steps.
TIP****My straps are cut at 3 times the finished width. Check out my "Gospel of Pleather" series to see how to sew a strap (you do not have to turn it inside out when finished sewing), and 3 other techniques to use this wonderful substrate for.
-When cutting a strap I like to use the 24" long rulers as it allows me to make long cuts, repostion, then cut again. Generally those cuts are 3", 4.5, OR 8" wide strips. BUT....
-I am cutting skinny straps here. At 1.5" wide it is easier to cut off of a smaller strip then to cut off the big roll. Since I am cutting kits, I cut a 6" strip, cut into two 3" strips, then cut each 3" again for the 1.5" cut.
When I started designing patterns I would draft all the pattern pieces on the typical general big fold-out sheet to be cut out. At some point I started to do strip cutting. Which I hope makes my Paradiso patterns an easy shift for quilters.
Then I started designing my Paradiso clothing patterns that included strip cutting too.
Here are a few tips to cutting fabric.
-I like to layout the fabric so that it is as straight as it can be with the selvages as possible.
-If needed I trim off the uneven ends, then I can get very accurate as seen here.
The next piece had folds and wrinkles.
-Lightly spritz (I use Best Press here) and steam fabric.
-**Hint, careful with ironing so fabric is not stretched out.
Strip Cutting Fabric & Other Substrates (like Pleather)
Lipstick Red Croc Pleather, penny is to compare size
I will be sharing tips & techniques to help you achieve your sewing dreams on Mondays.
I am super excited to show you how I have set up my studio to cut all my pattern pieces, and even give you a glance into how I make it easy to cut a high volume of the pleather/faux leather kits that work with all my Paradiso handbag patterns but also other handbag patterns as well. Over time I have developed a cutting style that helps me achieve very sharp sewing results.
Straight lines help us sew straight.
This is also a story of a sewist on a budget, making the most out of everything. As you will see my studio is set up in my garage. I call it the Paradiso Sewing Lounge. I even cleaned it for you!
I do not have tidy white counters.
It reminds me of Scott Hansen and his studio.
Yes I have as neat as possible fabric piles all around. There are baskets of thread. There is sewing art. There are many sewing tools, and it has a warmth for me and others. And it is mine, and I cherish it will all my heart. Plus there is a bed for my pup Jackx too!!
A few years ago I had a friend that loves my patterns tell me she was not fond of cutting strips (as I do with many of my Paradiso handbag and clothing patterns. BUT, what I found is strip cutting actually helps you make more accurate cuts.
It is similar to building a house, the more plumb (straight) you build it the longer the house will stand. The same goes with cutting out the pieces of a garment or a handbag. If I start out with straight cutting, then it is easier to continue accuracy throughout the entire project construction process.
So lets start with the basics. My cutting area set up is really simple. I leave the cutting mats in place 24/7. Even if I am teaching, then they are always ready to go! I tape the boards down to my table like this with clear packing tape. And sometimes I need to retape, but it is never a problem. I just slap more tape on top of the old tape.
The navy board is the bigger mat I use for most of the cutting. Then I have an "extension cutting mat". I used 2 smaller boards and taped them to gether on bottom.
-*A little "green mat history.. the green mat has marks on it, you can see them in this picture. Those are tire marks. An old friend found this mat on the ground in a parking lot. She thought I could use it, and I have for about 11 years now.
-You can see my two main tables in my studio in the next picture, both have the bigger boards, the navy and the green one, then you will see the extension cutting board next to the navy board on the first table.
Just a note about the navy cutting mat by Ofla. I will not get navy mats again because it is too hard to see darker colors on the navy mat, so the next mats will be green.
***PS...this is the cleanest/most organized my studio has been in over a year.
I use my studio to teach kiddos/adults to sew, and that is why you see so many machines.
As you look at the big table (I use dining room tables I get at thrift stores) with the navy and extension boards here. Often when I cut big rolls of pleather/faux leather, I have a 2' x 4' table (you can get them at Home Depot). The coolest thing is that they are adjustable legs at different heights, one of which is just below the big table, allowing for the smaller table to be tucked under. Because it is a bit lower then the bigger table, my big heap of fabric/bolt/roll of pleather sits on that lower table when it is pulled out, then I put one of the black folding chairs tops flush up to the edge of the table. This prevents the fabric/bolt/ roll from rolling off the table as I work on cutting what I need!
So this is what the table looks like with a huge roll of pleather on it. You are able to see how the roll sits slightly lower.
You can also see how the roll is on the lower table that can be move so it is just wide enough hold just the roll in placel.
-I was useing my 12.5" square to make a cut, and notice the extension mat is lined up so I can make the continoues cut on the pleather with the extension to bridge so I do not cut on to the wood table top.
Now to talk about what else is in the picture. I have:
-a rotary cutter (also Olfa)
-3" ruler
-measureing tapes
I also use:
-Various rulers, 6" x 24", 10.5" & 12.5" squares, 3.5" x 24"
-scissors for a quick clip when I need it
It is best to cut the pleather with rotary cutter. It will be a clean straight cut, which is essential to straight sewing.
In the picture above I am cutting out the bag body pieces. I take into account which way the pleather here will look best when deciding how to cut.
-With the square I am cutting out the bag body so that the croc pattern runs vertical, and it will look best vertical.
-But if I wanted to get more out of the cut I might cut a bigger piece (the horizontal measurement), but cutting bigger will not guarantee me more pieces always (if I am cutting kits), as this is a smaller bag.
-Keep this in mind what your fabric will yield when cut vertically vs. hortizontal. In this case it was the same amount of pieces either way, but the vertical looks better and has less waste, which is the #1 goal when cutting.
The next picture shows where I am cutting straps. Check out how I moved the extension for this different size cut.
Here is the process in steps.
TIP****My straps are cut at 3 times the finished width. Check out my "Gospel of Pleather" series to see how to sew a strap (you do not have to turn it inside out when finished sewing), and 3 other techniques to use this wonderful substrate for.
-When cutting a strap I like to use the 24" long rulers as it allows me to make long cuts, repostion, then cut again. Generally those cuts are 3", 4.5, OR 8" wide strips. BUT....
-I am cutting skinny straps here. At 1.5" wide it is easier to cut off of a smaller strip then to cut off the big roll. Since I am cutting kits, I cut a 6" strip, cut into two 3" strips, then cut each 3" again for the 1.5" cut.
When I started designing patterns I would draft all the pattern pieces on the typical general big fold-out sheet to be cut out. At some point I started to do strip cutting. Which I hope makes my Paradiso patterns an easy shift for quilters.
Then I started designing my Paradiso clothing patterns that included strip cutting too.
Here are a few tips to cutting fabric.
-I like to layout the fabric so that it is as straight as it can be with the selvages as possible.
-If needed I trim off the uneven ends, then I can get very accurate as seen here.
The next piece had folds and wrinkles.
-Lightly spritz (I use Best Press here) and steam fabric.
-**Hint, careful with ironing so fabric is not stretched out.
-Here is the same piece, folded.
-I lined up the fold on a line to keep that straight. This piece was not very straight off of the selvage as can be seen at the top of the photo.
-When this happens I do not fight it, My 1st cut is to staighten one WOF edge.
-2nd cut is to straighten the edge with the selvages. Make sure both ends are caught in the cut.
-3rd cut would be the other WOF edge to be straighten.
-Now all 3 edges + the folded edge is straight. I move the fabric is it is aligned with the lines on all sides. It is now ready to cut very accurate pieces for your project!
Lastly, here are the cut ends. I save these to use for weaveing, and package wrapping. And one really fun project is making a braided trim OR crochet rugs OR what would you do. Let me know in the comments!
Thanks for coming & hanging out!! Have a great week! Happy SEwing, xo, cheryl
Next Method Monday No. 2, All About Handbag Stabilizers!!
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