Method Monday No. 3, The Paradiso Wonderful World of Stabilizers

Hello to all......Method Monday No. 3 coming at you on Tuesday!

I have to address the elephant in the room, Covid-19. I have had to push myself to put one foot in front of the other.  Some days are hard to work and focus. But I do know we will survive somehow and some way. We are hunkered down. We will find our way through this time even as it has many twists and turns.

For me it is a gift of time to work on my biz, something that has proven to be difficult when working other “jobs and side gigs” to survive.  And for that I am grateful.  I hope these tidbits of sewing info are helpful to you to create beautiful items that are cherished and loved. And isn’t that what sewing is all about!!

Now let’s talk Stabilizers.

It feels as if there are a million different kinds (maybe not a million, but there is a lot) from many different brands.  Each brand has a line-up for many different types of sewing and crafting.

I work with Bosal products simply because I love the quality of their stabilizers. I only suggest what I feel genuinely good about working with.

Of all the info I have for you here, please know it is not sewing LAW.  These are suggestions of what has worked for me.  If there is anything here that helps in your sewing journey please know I am delighted! Share in the comments  what has worked for you that is not here, as I learn new techniques and substrates all the time from you too!!  

There is a number of ways to construct a bag, and I want you to do what ultimately works for you.

If you have questions, email me directly  cheryl@paradisodesigns.com so I can answer them quickly.

I design my own independent line of sewing patterns called Paradiso Designs.  I design handbags and women’s clothing.

General Interfacing Stabilizer

Muslin is a woven all purpose facing/stabilizer that I use for all my handbag linings, and as a backing to many of my handbag stabilizers.  I also use muslin to back the main fabric in stuffed animals and pillows.  It is amazing how much more luxurious a pillow can feel with that extra layer of muslin. Every great once in a while I can find a reason to use it in a garment too. Example, as a backing to a very thin, see-thru double gauze that was the front panel of a skirt.

I also teach my kiddos it is the m-word, because muslin solves world sewing problems!!

Isn't it a thing to buy entire bolts of muslin at Joann's with our coupons? I thought everyone does that....yes?!! And who remembers when not too long ago this exact muslin use to be $1.99 a yard?

Garment Interfacing/Stabilizers

If I need to do any stabilizing in garments, I generally use a tricot interfacing and I interface to a facing piece if I am fusing. And I grade (meaning to trim off) generally ¼” from each side of the interfacing. This helps to lessen the bulk in seams.

Bosal has two fusible lightweight interfacings.

Silk Envy is a woven for chiffon, silk or polyester. Or any very lightweight type of fabrics that we love to drape.  It has a bit of stretch and is available in white or black.

Lightweight 8 Way Stretch Fusible Tricot is perfect for shirt weight fabrics. BUT, personally I love to use it for all garment interfacings. I am not making blazers much any more and tend to make easier fitting clothing.
Fusible interfacing/stabilizer is basically a glue that is heated and then it cools after it has been adhered. I love the tricots because it only has a smattering of fusible glue on it, and it does not distort the fabric it is adhered to, especially when the fusible starts to “unglue/separate” due to use, wearing, and laundering.

If I do need a more “stable” interfacing, then I like to use Classic Sew-In Medium Weight Horse Hair Canvas Interfacing.  

For any specific tailoring of a garment I love the look this sew-in gives with all the hand tacking to roll a lapel. BUT I have also seen where others have used fuse able hair to the under collar & under lapel, then pad-stitche with a blind hemmer, which is total genius and a time saving move!

Handbag Stabilizers

When I design bags, I am careful to match the stabilizer with the bag shape, so that it acts the way I would like it to.  I have a short list of the 3 types I use all the time, but I do have one bag that I used just canvas for its support base in place of a real stabilizer.  It really is about how any handbag design “acts and moves” to what determines its support need.  And one very important thing to remember is if the same stabilizer is used for each and every design, then the designs may tend to look the same.  Variety is the spice to life.

I am very picky about how my handbag designs maintain their look as we use them, and isn’t that the goal? We aim to make a bag that LOOKS good, is durable and that we love to death…right?

So, I expect a bag I  spend time to make to hold up and look fresh for the majority of it’s life. 

This is why I  personally refuse to fuse anything to an exterior of any bag. It is the same point as above about the glue. That fusible stabilizer starts to craze and separate from whatever it is fused to.  Plus, it is so hard to sew once all the bag layers come together when construction brings all those points together. 

I also believe a guy dreamed up the thicker fusible stabilizer that you glue/fuse to entire bag parts. He thinks we need this strength, even if it is almost impossible to sew. This makes me sad because I do not want you to lose your enthusiasm to sew handbags.

I am a sewing rebel, because I seek realistic and easier handbag construction.

There will be a few hard parts to sew, but it is not impossible.

This is the cycle of sewing life, you get cool materials, and you create something you love.  And those actions refuel the desire to make more stuff.  
Hopefully you will never lose your mojo for sewing. If you need take a break and do not feel guilty about it. It will allow you to breathe and free your mind, then to tackle a project with new eyes!

We hear a lot these days about doing self care, and when we do get a chance to do that, it really does make a difference in our lives.

Handbag Bodies

Bosal #326 polyester fleece is the one stabilizer that I use most. Because of my construction techniques it provides a lovely soft feel, yet still able to stand on its own. YES…the sew-in will stand up!! The secret is that I like to sandwich the fleece between the exterior fabric and muslin. One thing I noticed about fleece is that around 10 years ago, this fleece actually had more loft.  Over the years as products change, the fleece does not have as much loft, but it is easier to sew in now.  Just keep in mind that due to cost, so products may change.
This is a combo of 2 of my patterns using fleece: The Be Green Market Bag and the Kaleidoscope

Here is my Emma Foldover Bag.  I must have the fleece so the bag can really fold over.

Bosal In-R-Foam Sew-In, actually I was reluctant to use foam at first. I was not sold on it. I did not want my designs at attention (I thought it was too rigid) 24/7. In a discussion with the founder of Bosal, Bob explained to me how foam works.  When foam is exposed to air, it will eventually dry out and crumble.  This foam is a 1/4" high density.  At Bosal Bob seals the foam on both sides. One side has a smooth almost like woven material, and the other side is a tricot that seals the foam to prevent the exposure to air. After some time to figure out designs that needed the stability that foam offered, allowing the use of foam in 3 - 4 my handbags. I even have one design that I used fleece in first, but it really needed the foam, resulting in a better and more appropriate choice.
This is the Alison G4 Hobo pattern that uses foam.

Handbag Bottoms 

I love a good hard interfacing, which is how I categorize the following.

Craft -Tex was the first hard interfacing I loved using for the handbag bottoms.  I actually do use a double-sided fusible for my bottoms, but I fuse it to an interfacing so that if the hard interfacing comes apart, nobody can tell, and it stays in place.  

But then I found Heat Moldable Double-Sided Fusible.  This right here is the ticket. If you look in the picture the Moldable is kinda crinkled up.  It is a plastic that is originally used bend and shape into containers and baskets using heat. I had a chance to feel it and  I knew immediately o how well it could work in the bag bottoms.  And when I told Bob about it at first he thought I was nuts. But once he felt it in the bottom of a handbag, he was sold too.  There is no other product like this, and it is fabulous.  I hope you think so too! Even as it is crinkled up, it will relax once heat is applied.

Thanks for tuning in. 

Next week is a new installment of The Gospel of Pleather, Day 5, How to sew a Skinny Strap.

If you are curious and would like to see the first 4 days, click "Gospel of Pleather".

I appreciate you and your time!