Anyone Crossbody-Sling Bag Sew-A-Long, Day 2, Exterior and Lining Construction!

Excited to finally get into the bag construction!
The zip needs to be cut down to 1/2" on each end as shown.


There is a 1-7/8" strip that is first ironed in half lengthwise.
Then tuck one raw edge into the center fold & iron.

Next take the pocket & iron in half (7" tall)

Next pin the pocket in a few places so the pieces will not shift.

Use the machine as a third hand!
Put the trim cap under the foot to allow for a 1/8" seam allowance. do a few stitches.
Make sure the seam opens to the left.


With the needle up, open the trim cap and insert the raw edged top of the pocket.
Make sure it is firmly against the center fold of the trim.
Stitch the trim to the pocket top with a 3.0 stitch length.


Stitch 2 stitches off the pocket and insert the end of the zip, and sew with a 1/8" sa.


Stitch a few more stitches, then inset the top of the zip, one side at a time.


Leave about 1/8" space between the 2 top zip ends, so that
 the zip head can sit well when the zip is zipped up!
Please note how the zip ends are nestled in nicely.


Now cut the trim even with the sides of the pocket and the zip tape edges.


Next take the exterior pocket & lining and with right sides together 
sew both long ends with a 3/8" sa.

 
Flip to the right side.
Them clip the long sides as shown.


Topstitch the top edge.
Make sure pocket top is flush with the machine foot on the right, 
and needle is all the way to the right too. Use a 3.0 stitch length.
Pocket will be sewn into place soon.


The is one of the exterior sides of the bag.
Layer muslin + fleece batting + exterior fabric. Clip together as shown.
Exterior fabric = hand-dyed (Coral Deserts) + waterproofed with Odicoat)


Place the pocket1.25" down from the bag top, & clip into place.
Repeat the pocket top sewing on the bottom to secure the pocket in place.



On the exterior wrong side on both bottom corners measure 1-3/8" squares & draw.
Accuracy is very important here!


Carefully cut out the bottom corner squares.


Bottom corners successfully cut out!
 
Here is a new stronger option to insert the tabs.
*****START HERE FOR TAB INSERTION ON BAG BACK*****
*****PLEASE scroll down to see how the other tabs are inserted to see which you like best.
The tabs will be inserted on the back of the bag shown here. 
In the pattern instructions, the original tab insertion was on the sides, but I found that inserting the tabs into the seam is a much stronger bond then inserting in the side seam.

On the back bag bottom the tabs (both the ring tab as shown here OR the grommet tab)
are placed 1" from each side as shown here.


With the needle all the way over to the right, tack the tabs with a 3.0 stitch length.
Stitch over each tab at least 3 times.


Here are the tabs sewn into place.


Sandwich the tabs by adding the bag top & clip into place.


Here is how the tabs are clipped above and below to secure before the final sewn seam.


Sew with a 3.0 SL and a 3/8" seam allowance.
I suggest sewing over the tab at least twice.


On the back of the bag bottom, clip only the bottom bag 
on each side of each tab as shown.


Next topstitch with a 1/8" sa on the bag top. Topstitch should catch the sa underneath.
Make sure to stitch over the tab twice.


This is how it will look on the back.


*****START HERE FOR TAB INSERTION ON BAG SIDES...*****
******you want to insert the tabs on the sides of the bag, then start here to follow instructions.


line up the bag top to the exterior fabric.


Clip into place.
Heads up these pieces really fit precisely together.
Sew the seam with a 3/8" sa as shown.


Flip the pleather up with the seam allowance up under the pleather.


Finger fold to flatten the surface.


Sew with a 3.0 stitch length.
Left side of foot flush with pleather edge.
Needle all the way to the left.



The exterior pieces will be put aside until the lining pieces are finished.
Layer muslin + lining, & pin at sides to hold in place.


Next place the pocket on 1 side of the linking, 3" down from the top.
Pin on the sides, then find the center of the pocket & the lining, 
mark centers with pins at the top & bottom of pocket.


I love using a decorative stitch and sew down the center of the lining
from the top to the bottom of the lining  as shown.



Then sew the pocket bottom to secure.


Expand the picture.


Measure & cut 1-3/8" corners on the backsides of the linings


Day 3, all the exterior and lining pieces will be assembled into the final bag!

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